Now just imagine how tight the house is on the block, to force me to do this. Not quite sure how we will do the topsoil once the house is complete.
Now just imagine how tight the house is on the block, to force me to do this. Not quite sure how we will do the topsoil once the house is complete.
. I have priced both k93 & k94 and a Vermeer S600. Have over the years looked and tried many other makes but always found it hard to compare with dingo so I'm down to these two makes. I want to stay loyal to the make that has helped me build my business DINGO (first trading name was Leo's Dingo Digger) I know that they are great machines as I have always pushed mine to it's limits. I did buy it second hand with 60hrs on it as a kit for $34000 seven years ago. I have had my ups & downs with dingo (the company) over the years but on the whole most problems have been sorted without too much drama. My problem now is do I stay loyal and pay approx 25% 
more than the Vermeer. I have had a sleepless weekend trying to work out what to do as I need to do it this finanical year. Has anyone else tried the Vermeer and if so what were your thoughts on them? Maybe I'm going to get a biased view from you blokes but any comments would be appreciated. Only got two more days to make up my mind Leo
Leo's Mini Excavations
0409322002
jyewal@bigpond.com
Do those of you with trucks keep your Dingo trailer or do you load all of your gear onto the truck - or both?
What small tipper work well? Which don't? Narrow cabs? Wider cabs? I have used a narrow cab little Dyna tipper on some of the landscaping jobs and it's great for squeezing in between houses with loads of mulch etc.
]]>My standard k9-3 kit can solve a lot of problems and handles a lot of things well. This post is about some of the things that annoying little problems with contracting and, hopefully some good solutions.
The first one that springs to mind is trenching. A lot of trenches need to go between the house and the shed or two other similar dead ends. This means trench from one end, spin around, trench from the other end and join somewhere in the middle. The middle bit usually means shovel work to clean out the spoil, and often means driving over the trench somewhere which is prone to collapsing, getting a wheel stuck etc. I sometimes use a couple of planks to stop collapsing the sides but it is still a pain in the butt. I don't mind a bit of shovel work, actually it's good to keep a bit fit, but it would be good to be able to make it easier. Sometimes i think a 150mm wide grapple type attachement would be good where you can come in at the side and clean out the trench with the machine.
Now not to change the subject but, trenching shovels. I was cleaning out a trench for a bloke not long ago and I was about to go and grab my narrow trenching shovel from the trailer but he said he had one in the shed. We used his and he had cut about 80-100mm off the end so it was a little stubby shovel. He said he did that years ago because it worked better. I reckon it worked better too, so I cut mine down as well. Gets rid of that narrow taper at the front which seems to clog and jam. I'm now going to buy 100 shovels for $20 each, cut them down and sell them as "power trenchers" for $35 each. 
Another one from the old forum, cleaning out dry powdery post holes. Add a bit of water, give it a stir with the auger (forward and reverse) turns into paste, result - clean hole.
Another one - depends where you are - ripper. Never used them much. Then I put some new teeth on and started giving them a go where you need to take out a fair bit of stuff. Depending on the soil they can work really well. Takes very little time to rip the joint up and then the bucket work is a lot easier on you and the machine.
Another one - the poly pipe layer. Never thought I'd use it but have had a couple of jobs now. Again, depends on your soil. Run it through as a ripper first before you try to lay pipe. Then run it through with the pipe. Got another one of these next week.
Another one - fixing pipes. Whenever I hit a shallow storm water, especially on turf preps where the good old plumbers have buried it 5mm below old mates back yard, I check out the pipe. If it's only damaged on top I fix it with a sleeve. I keep a few lengths of 90 and 100mm PVC on me with a slit cut laterally, the length of the pipe. All you have to do then is clean and prime the old pipe and the new sleeve (cut to size), glue, glue, glue and slip it on over the busted pipe. Saves mucking around with joiners.
]]>Customers want it done on a weekend. A full day in it, maybe a bit more. Also come back and back fill retaining wall at finish.
Give me a call on 5494 3552 and I'll pass on your details.
]]> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1eCO8VFoE9k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AjR6DofVOTI
]]>]]>To post a picture....print these instructions and away you go...hopefully
1. Make sure your picture is small. Check it out in Windows Picture and Fax viewer and click the "Actual Size" icon at the bottom. The picture should be of a size that will fit into the forum without increasing the size of the forum columns and making it hard for everyone to read. A great size is 800x600 and the file size should not be much more that 100kb. Use a graphics program such as Windows resizer to reduce the image size if necessary.
2. Upload the photo(s) to photobucket.com. It's free. Photobucket is just a place where you can upload your photos so you can use them on the net. You need to log in or sign up first. Then follow the instructions to upload your pics.
3. Once your pic is uploaded to photobucket, it will appear in "Recent Uploads" on your photobucket page. Above the image it should say "Edit Share Delete". Click on "Share".
4. In Photobucket a "share this image" window will now pop up. Click on the tab that says "Get Link Code". Go to the section that says "IMG for bulletin boards & forums".
Click in the small text window next to "Full Size", then right click and copy that bit of code.
5. Now that you have the link copied, just paste it straight into your comment or reply on the forum. Wherever you place the curser (and click paste) is where your image will appear.
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, but then haven't heard anything since. From what I saw it looked typically "Dingo" tough, although I thought the rather small idler wheel on top at the front might cause track failure issues.Release date? Scrapped? Further development required?
Regards Dave
]]>The Welcome message says "what has Dingo done for you?" well, I can tell you that I bought mine 2nd hand to help with our landscaping (we build and sell houses) but it has turned into a fully fledged business and the kit has well and truly paid for itself in 12 months. I'm not saying everyone can do this, it depends on your area, business skills, ability as an operator etc. I was lucky as we didn't have too many operators, and most of them do it as a sideline to concreting or fencing etc.
I have just spent two days with an old school builder on a million dollar job after being told there was probably a day in it. They now want me back for the rest of the week as the boss can see the amount of work getting done. Most of the job is tight access and I'm working with a Bobcat 323 mini-ex. We are trenching, breaking concrete and removing tonnes of the rubbish as well as general clean ups, installing sand to trenches, removing old piers and gardens etc.
Cheers all,
Macca
www.malenydingohire.com
I've been towing my kit with an oldish landrover but will be looking for a small tipper this year and hopefully a 1.5t class mini-ex to complete the combo. Most of the work is good fun and the machine keeps impressing me (and customers) month after month. (Dingo - you can send my free plug fee direct to Maleny Dingo Hire... )
Anyhow, I'd like to see some of the great articles and advice that were on the old forum so all those who had a good idea, system or invention that made Dingo work easier, smarter etc., start sending them in! Here is yesterdays job....
